Unique Handmade Fine Art Jewelry

Laurie Stetzler
 of Laurie Stetzler Design Works Jewelry

www.lauriestetzler.com

I’m mostly interested in interpreting the beauty of life, both the spiritual and the manifest. I hope you’ll find in my designs inspiration for yourself.Laurie Stetzler

It’s All in the Design

Hi, I’m Laurie Stetzler. I’ve been a jeweler for nearly 50 years. I’ve watched trends come and go, but it seems to me that good design is always timeless.  When Susan asked me to write a column about Unique Handmade Fine Art Jewelry, I said, “YES”.

I love writing about jewelry and teaching others about it.

 "Fun at Grandmas" Bracelet by Laurie Stetzler of Laurie Stetzler Design Works Jewelry

The first idea I’d like to address is the difference between “Fine Jewelry” and “Fine ART Jewelry”. Fine Jewelry is a category, which incorporates only gold and precious gems like diamonds. With Fine Art Designer Jewelry practically any material may be used. It’s all in the design, you see. I have used base metals a lot in my work. Base metals are copper, brass, nickel and bronze. I have used “found” objects sometimes, but I usually prefer to make by hand anything that goes into my work.

Less expensive materials mean lower prices for the buyer. And many people buy the jewelry design for its price. They are still getting an original design and they know it.

These days, I prefer to work in sterling and add touches of gold in the form of vermeil, a triple plating process, which is an art by itself. I do not rely on gemstones in my work, although I do love to use them when its appropriate for a design. Conversely, I may design a piece of jewelry around a gem. Many people think that jewelry is all about a setting for a stone. That is not my philosophy. The design of a fine art piece of jewelry should be able to stand on its own, or add to the stone not just serve as a mount.

Handmade Fine Art Jewelry is called a “craft” because one needs to get one’s hands dirty occasionally. However many painters (and I was one for awhile) speak of the “craft” of painting. All art involves a discipline of learning what is needed to make the design come to life. This is true of architecture, city planning, dance, painting, printmaking, as well as jewelry. I, therefore, consider that jewelry can be just as much an art as anything more commonly called that. It’s all in the design… and whether the artist in whatever media has the ability and know-how to carry it out.


About Laurie Stetzler

Laurie Stetzler and Mambo

Laurie Stetzler received her BFA in Jewelry and Silversmithing from the University of Kansas in 1972. Asthe sole designer for her many bodies of work, Laurie is able also to take a design from drawing to finished product. This is a rapidly dying skill as most designer/jewelers specialize in one area.

Laurie has shown her work in many national juried competitions. She has been carried in many of the finest art/craft galleries nationally and has exhibited in Japan.

have always been interested in the technical aspect of jewelry making as well as the freedom of artistic expression working in precious metals offers me. I view jewelry not as merely adornment, but as a powerful way of drawing energies, healing and hope to the wearers of my creations. Lots of equipment and the know-how to use it is required to produce jewelry. Many people think the cost of jewelry is mainly the metals and the gems; not so. It really is the long patient years of achieving mastery in this most difficult art. But, as with all good things, the time invested produces many kinds of growth as an artist and human being.

I take my inspiration and intuition from what I call the Spirit of the Universe, I give people the best price I can so they may have an opportunity to wear what I make and I work very hard and well to keep my clients satisfied. If you like jewelry which means something, I invite you to visit my website at www.lauriestetzler.com. I make jewelry the old-fashioned USA way; well designed to fit; attention to wearability, and made to last; with pride in the craft and the art we offer to the client.

ARTICLES
LOST WAX CASTING
Fuchsia Dangle Earrings

 

 


Lost Wax Casting ~ Fuchsia Dangle Earrings

by Laurie Stetzler

As with all my flower jewelry, I selected the most perfect specimen of Click to Enlarge ~ Fuchsia Dangle Earrings by Laurie Stetzler flower I could find; usually one I grew myself. I then make a detailed drawing of the flower. Then, I carve the miniature sculpture of it in jeweler’s wax. This can take days.

I use the “low relief” style of carving which sculptors have been using for millennia. This gives all the detail and depth of the subject I’m capturing without the weight of full 3dimensional sculpture. I have been using this technique and improving on it for many years.
There is a certain “engineering” aspect to jewelry keeping in mind the wearability factor. A piece of fine art jewelry must be comfortable and last for years. In earrings, the pieces must be lightweight for the comfort and health of the ears of the woman wearing it.  It is important to lighten any carving by hollowing out the back very carefully to maintain even thickness throughout the piece.

Once I have the master carving done, I surround it with a plaster called “investment” in the jewelry trade. This is also called “lost wax casting”, as the wax is lost when it is burned out in the casting oven. Casting master waxes can be very exciting, as the jeweler gets only one chance.

Once cast, (I use a vacuum casting machine) the piece of jewelry is finished and, if it is a limited edition like the Fuchsia Dangle Earrings, I take a rubber mold off it so I can repeat the design. I add the two tone effect by first plating the piece in pure silver to avoid tarnish, then painting off the areas I want to stay silver and triple plating the rest in 24K gold. This method insures that the piece will retain its beauty for many years without the need for polishing. I recommend keeping fine jewelry in tarnish proof bags for safety and longevity of the high finish.
There are, obviously, many steps and little tricks I use to produce the results I obtain but, that’s the process in a nutshell. I hope this brief description of the “lost was casting process" and of these earrings in particular has been of interest to the reader.

...for more details about the Fuchsia Dangle Earrings click HERE

Article copyright  2007 by Laurie Stetzler. All rights reserved.

www.lauriestetzler.com