How Pearls Form
By Amy Hourigan, Graduate Pearls Program, GIA

We talk a lot about the different types of pearls, pearl characteristics and pearl jewelry on this site, but so far we haven’t had a discussion about how pearls form—and it’s a fascinating one. What’s even more intriguing to me than the natural formation of pearls is that people figured out how to make pearls grow via the culturing process. Let’s explore…

Throughout much of recorded history, pearls have been revered for their natural beauty and rarity and have even been thought to have mystical healing powers. During the 1500s, in fact, the pearl craze became so bad that European lawmakers feared for citizens’ safety if something wasn’t done to curb it, and eventually passed laws in France, England, Germany and Italy to stop pearl extravagance. In fact, according to the Gemological Institute of America, one 1599 Venetian resolution stated: The use and price of pearls has become so excessive and increases to such an extent from day to day, that if some remedy is not provided, it will cause injury, disorders and notable inconvenience to public and private well-being. The resolution aimed to curb the pearl craze by allowing only women who had been married more than 15 years to wear the gems. Of course, the law didn’t work; most everyone still wanted and wore pearls, and the gems eventually became very rare.

They say necessity is the mother of invention, and this was certainly true for pearl culturing.

Natural Pearls
Most of us know that pearls form inside oysters or other mollusks; popular thinking is that the process begins when an irritant, such as a grain of sand, enters the oyster and the oyster responds by secreting mother-of-pearl to smooth over the intruder. That’s partly true, but it’s actually not normal for a mollusk to make a pearl, and the irritant is usually a tiny worm, crab or fish (rarely a grain of sand) that burrows through the shell or floats in when the animal is filter-feeding. To protect itself, the oyster grows a sac around the intruder, which then secrets nacre (the same substance as mother-of-pearl) to coat the irritant. The pearl gradually grows in size, as layer upon layer of nacre is added. Natural pearl formation is relatively rare. Finding these gems is an uncommon treat; finding a large, round natural pearl is nearly impossible!

Cultured Pearls
Humans actually figured out how to culture pearls, or induce the pearl-formation process, more than 700 years ago. Early cultured pearl farmers in China, according to GIA, would glue a tiny sculpture of Buddha to the inside of an oyster shell, causing the animal to make blister pearls—pearls that form against the side of the shell and are later cut from the animal.

By contrast, gem-quality cultured pearls have only been available since the 1920s. Kokochi Mikimoto, the Japanese son of a noodle shop owner, is credited with developing the modern pearl culturing process, although he wasn’t the only one researching culturing techniques at the time.

To grow cultured pearls, oysters or mussels are nucleated, or implanted, with either a starter bead around which the pearl can grow plus a piece of mantle tissue (its cells are needed to induce the pearl-growing process) or with mantle tissue only. The former process is used to make saltwater pearls such as Tahitian, South Sea and akoya pearls. The latter is used for freshwater pearl formation, and because there is no starter bead, the resulting pearl is nearly 100 percent nacre.

Working quickly so as to minimize stress to the animal, highly skilled technicians, called nucleators, implant the bead or tissue into the oyster or mollusk and return it to the water to begin the growing process. If all goes well, in several months or even a few years, depending on the type of oyster, the result is a beautiful, cultured pearl, virtually indistinguishable from a natural pearl, except that man had a hand in the process.

Lucky for all us pearl lovers, someone figured out how to culture pearls, making them more abundant and attainable. If culturing were not an option, we’d probably never get to own these gorgeous gems.

The South Sea Pearl
By Amy Hourigan, Graduate Pearls Program, GIA

 When you picture pearls, small, round white akoyas probably come to mind. These classic gems are popular and pretty, and are favored by everyone from young fashionistas to modern brides to society matrons, so they’re usually what we think of when we picture a traditional strand of pearls. But there are several types of pearls beyond the classic akoya. From Tahitian to freshwater, keshi to South Sea, each has its own unique characteristics and unquestionable beauty and is well-worth discovering.

If you’re looking for attention-grabbing jewelry—and have cash to burn—a South Sea pearl strand is a gorgeous, statement-making piece. The gems’ large size—they’re the largest pearls on the market—thick nacre and beautiful silver and golden colors are extremely luxurious, and naturally have a price tag to match. Let’s explore…

Background and History
As you may have guessed, South Sea pearls are named for the region in which they’re grown—a temperate, plankton-rich area situated between the southern coast of China and the northern coast of Australia. While the latter country produces most of the world’s South Sea cultured pearl crop—60 percent according to the Gemological Institute of America—Indonesia, the Philippines, Myanmar and Thailand also culture the gems.

South Sea pearls are extremely desirable today, so you might be surprised to learn that they’re relatively new to the market. In fact, it was the oyster’s shell, not its pearl-making ability, that Australians first coveted when they discovered P. maxima in the shallow waters of Australia in the 1800s. Demand for the shells grew quickly. According to GIA, within a few years of discovering P. maxima, Australia was supplying 75 percent of the world’s demand for mother-of-pearl.

Of course the oyster population couldn’t sustain this level of fishing indefinitely. By 1930, Australia’s wild oyster population was severely depleted, forcing the government to step in and set limits in order to protect the animals. The industry gradually declined and finally dried up during World War II, when fishing boats were called upon to help the war effort.  

Two decades of relative quiet followed. That changed in 1950, when the Australian government decided to lift an earlier ban on pearl culturing, which it had feared would harm the natural pearl trade. Once the ban was lifted, pearl culturing began in earnest. According to GIA, farmers in Australia established the first commercial pearl farm there in 1956, and the industry gradually grew into the giant it is today.  

Characteristics
If you get a chance to see a South Sea pearl up close, you’ll probably first notice its large size. At an average diameter of 13mm, South Sea pearls are about twice the size of the typical akoya. There are several reasons South Sea pearls grow so large. First, the oyster they’re grown in, P. maxima, is a relatively large animal, much larger than the oyster used to grow Japanese akoyas. In fact, P. maxima can grow to about 12 inches in diameter, which means it can accept a larger starter bead than a smaller oyster or mussel. Second, larger oysters are able to deposit nacre faster than smaller oysters, meaning they can grow larger pearls in a shorter amount of time. Third, the environment where the animals live is pristine, plankton is abundant and the water is warm. These all contribute to a healthy environment that’s perfect for marine health, nacre secretion and of course, pearl growing. (Because they filter so much water, P. maxima are particularly susceptible to changes in water conditions.) Finally, South Sea pearls typically have a two year growth period, compared to as little as eight months for some akoyas. Naturally, the longer the oyster is allowed to secrete nacre, the bigger the pearl will be.

Apart from their generous size, South Sea pearls are known for their satiny luster—a function of the way their nacre is deposited—and subtle array of colors, which most often include white, cream and silver. Indeed, P. maxima comes in only two varieties: silver-lipped or gold-lipped—names derived from the color of the outer edge of the shell’s interior, or mother-of-pearl, which helps determine pearl color.

Pearl Farming
To culture South Sea pearls, Australian pearl farmers breed oysters in hatcheries or, more commonly, collect the animals in the wild. (Conversely, their Indonesian and Philippine counterparts rely more heavily on hatchery-bred animals.) Because the oysters are solitary and often buried in sand, they’re difficult to find, so collecting wild oysters is a difficult task. And because the animals are delicate, care must be taken not to remove them from their natural environment for too long. In fact, early efforts at culturing P. maxima using techniques developed for the heartier akoya resulted in a 60 percent mortality rate, according to GIA. Later methods, developed specifically for P. maxima and the Australian environment, which keep the oysters in their natural environment as much as possible, have been much more successful.

In Australia, South Sea pearl oysters are nucleated when they’re about two years old and 4.7 to 6.7 inches in diameter. Working quickly to keep the stress of the animal to a minimum, highly skilled pearl nucleators surgically insert one nuclei into each oyster and return it to the water. (By contrast, freshwater mussels and akoyas can take several bead nuclei at once). P. maxima can be nucleated up to three times in its lifetime; the third and final time, when the animal is about six years old or so, produces the largest pearl, although this pearl usually has the thinnest nacre.  

In Australia, oysters are collected from February to July, nucleated between March and December, and harvested in June, July and August, when water temperatures are coolest and the cultured pearls are at their most lustrous and colorful. During the pearl growing process, the oysters are stored at sea either on the sea floor in panels where divers tend to them, or, more commonly, on a long-line system, where net panels hold the oysters below the surface of the ocean hung from lines attached to buoys.  

When farmers harvest South Sea pearls, they typically don’t treat them beyond washing them. The pearls are typically then shipped to be sold at major auctions; the prices that are set at those auctions influence prices around the world.

South Sea Jewelry
South Sea pearls are not as plentiful as Japanese akoyas, and experienced pearl sorters can go through as many as 10,000 pearls before they find even two to match for fine jewelry. As you can imagine, a strand of large, round, high quality South Sea cultured pearls is very expensive, costing upward of tens of thousands of dollars. Because these strands are outside the means of most people, jewelry designers make South Sea pearls more affordable by using baroque or drop shapes, which are just as beautiful, yet less costly. If you ever get the opportunity to purchase a piece of South Sea jewelry—whether a costly strand or a single baroque pendant—I highly recommend it! You can pick up one for me while you’re at it. J

Click the Button to Send Your Questions

Copyright © 2008 by Amy Hourigan. All rights reserved.

If Clothes Make the Man,
Does Jewelry Make the Woman?
By Amy Hourigan, Graduate Pearls Program, GIA

 As a pearl jewelry expert, I receive and read a great deal of news releases and articles about pearls and pearl jewelry, and I closely follow jewelry trends in professional trade publications, at trade shows and in fashion magazines. 

A trend I’ve noticed lately that’s surprised me is the sheer number of times both Michelle Obama, wife of the Democratic nominee for president Barack Obama, and Cindy McCain, wife of Republican presidential candidate John McCain, are mentioned in conjunction with their jewelry preferences. I’m as much of a fan of fashion as the next girl, but I’m amazed that not much seems to be made of Michelle Obama’s law career or her undergrad days at Princeton and subsequent days at Harvard, or Cindy McCain’s business acumen—she’s chair of Hensley & Co., one of the largest Anheuser-Busch beer distributors in the U.S. And her charitable works—Mrs. McCain founded and ran a non-profit organization that organized trips by medical personnel to disaster-struck or war-torn third-world areas—are barely mentioned in the articles I’ve read. Any one of these women’s accomplishments is a newsworthy achievement; together they are downright impressive.  

Yet we continue to talk about Michelle and Cindy’s fashion sense. Are we really more interested in these women’s taste in clothes and jewelry than in their significant accomplishments? Apparently so, judging by the number of articles I’ve seen addressing both women’s penchant for chunky, oversize pearl necklaces. I guess it’s not so surprising if you look back in history. Who can forget Barbara Bush’s giant white pearls? And style icon Jackie Kennedy was talked about more for her signature double strand of white pearls and her pillbox hats than she was for her successful and impressive editing career.

Seems that Michelle and Cindy are following in Jackie O’s elegant footsteps, which, all things considered, isn’t a bad place to be. Indeed, even The New York Times commented on the women’s fashion, calling Mrs. Obama’s pearls “gobstoppers,” while other publications note with regularity that the luminous gems are part of her signature style. Like Michelle Obama, Cindy McCain’s penchant for oversize pearls has also been duly noted again and again. The New York Daily News was just one of the publications that commented on both ladies’ shared passion for pearls, and I’ve seen a handful of articles that pit each woman’s fashion tastes against the other. (Mrs. Obama usually wins.)

The takeaway? First impressions really do count, and for women—even successful, powerful, career-oriented women, style matters. Luckily for all us pearl lovers, pearl jewelry whispers that the wearer is chic, elegant and sophisticated, which is the perfect tone for wowing bosses, future in-laws, potential clients or even new friends. There just isn’t much that’s controversial or offensive about pearls, and pretty much any strand—black or white, large or small, double-looped or single—will make a good impression. So go ahead and keep wearing your pearls. You’re in good company. In fact, while I’m glad I don’t have to have my style analyzed in the national news, if it were to happen, like Michelle Obama and Cindy McCain, I’d be armed with a chunky pearl necklace, and I’d be ready.J

Click the Button to Send Your Questions

Copyright © 2008 by Amy Hourigan. All rights reserved.

The Perfectly Imperfect Pearl
By Amy Hourigan, Graduate Pearls Program, GIA

If you’re a pearl lover like I am, you know these sea gems are just gorgeous and that no other jewelry quite pulls off the sophisticated, elegant vibe that pearls do. I’ve successfully paired the gems with sundresses, jeans, a business suit and my wedding dress (both times)! In short, pearls are just perfect.

Actually, they aren’t.

What the heck am I talking about? A trait known as “surface characteristics.” Although most people think of pearls as round and smooth, they’re actually relatively rough, and are commonly marred by all sorts of irregularities, making them far from “perfect.” (This roughness gave rise to the “tooth” test, whereby you can tell real pearls by the grit you feel when you rub them against your teeth). Personally, I believe these irregularities are what make the gems uniquely beautiful. Let’s explore…

Pearl Value Factors: How Surface Characteristics Fit In
Thanks to aggressive publicity campaigns sponsored by the diamond industry, most of us know that buying a quality diamond entails asking about carat, cut, clarity, color and cost. The five Cs, as they’re commonly known, allow buyers to make informed decisions based on a universally accepted grading system. No such system exists for pearls, which makes buying these gems a bit more difficult. What we do have is a grading system developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the world’s largest non-profit institute of gemological research and learning, which takes into account seven pearl traits when determining value. These traits include size, shape, color, luster, surface quality, nacre quality, and matching. All things being equal, luster is the most important value factor, since luster, or surface sheen, is what gives a pearl its unique beauty. But it’s surface quality we’re discussing here.

Pearl Surface Characteristics
Because they aren’t machine made, pearls are imperfect, meaning they are not the uniform, shiny, perfectly round orbs you probably picture when you think of the gems. Rather, as natural objects formed by an animal secreting layer upon layer of organic materials, pearls typically show many surface characteristics. These blemishes, such as abrasions, bumps, chips, cracks, pits, scratches and wrinkles, are common. In fact, most people will never see a “perfect” pearl in their lifetime. Luckily, minor surface irregularities do not detract from a pearl’s value. (If you see a “perfect” pearl strand, it’s probably faux. If it’s not, is likely way beyond your means, unless your last name happens to be Gates, Trump or Winfrey.)

According to GIA, there are four classifications of pearl surface characteristics:

• Clean: The pearl can be blemish-free, or spotless, or contain minute surface characteristics that are very difficult to see when examined by a trained observer.
• Lightly blemished: These pearls show minor surface irregularities when inspected by a trained observer.
• Moderately blemished: These pearls show noticeable surface characteristics.
• Heavily blemished: The pearls show obvious surface irregularities, which can compromise durability.

The pearl’s overall appearance determines its value—you don’t have to note every little blip. That said, obvious or multiple surface characteristics or large blemishes that affect the gem’s durability detract from its value; conversely, a more clean-looking pearl is worth more. Luckily, small bumps and blemishes can often be hidden by a drill hole. According to GIA, “…a completely clean pearl is a rare treasure. Since rarity influences value, the prices of such pearls run extremely high. Most consumers must settle for some degree of surface irregularity in the pearl they purchase. Even the finest pearls can contain minor surface characteristics.”

All things considered, if you’re buying pearls, a few minor characteristics are no big deal. Look for an excellent luster, a round shape and a large size (if you like large pearls) over a few minor pits or dings. They won’t detract from the jewelry and chances are you won’t notice them. Some women even deliberately choose blemished pearls. Circle pearls, also known as ringed pearls, account for 25 to 30 percent of the Tahiti cultured pearl harvest. The pearls, which often have highly desirable multiple hues, are characterized by concave grooves. According to Modern Jeweler, circle pearls are “red-hot and growing hotter.” The reason? Customers know the pearls are real; their obvious blemishes are a sure sign that the gems were formed by a mollusk rather than a machine. According to article author David Federman, circle pearls have a look all their own. “Unlike other baroque pearls,” he writes, “they are usually fully or semi-symmetrical with oval, oblong, and drop shapes.” He says their ridged surfaces intensify iridescence, especially in black pearls. “With big farmer backlogs to choose from, dealers can offer strands that are well-matched for color, luster, and complexion.”

If you’re in the market for pearl jewelry, whether you deliberately choose circle pearls or purchase a round strand of slightly blemished beauties, you’ll have a gorgeous new piece to accent your wardrobe. I think that’s just perfect. J

Click the Button to Send Your Questions

Copyright © 2008 by Amy Hourigan. All rights reserved.

Fashion Advice for Brides from a Bridal Accessories Expert
By Amy Hourigan, Graduate Pearls Program, GIA

June is not only the month whose birthstone is the luminous pearl, but it’s also a very popular month to tie the knot. To that end, I decided to interview my good friend and co-worker, Mary Ellen Garbarino, about pearl bridal jewelry for this month’s column. Mary Ellen is a jewelry buyer and a bridal consultant for MoonRiverPearls.com; her expertise is pearl bridal jewelry. In her career at Moon River Pearls.com, she’s helped hundreds of brides choose the perfect bridal jewelry for their wedding day—not to mention gifts for their attendants—and she truly loves her job. Read what she has to say about current bridal jewelry trends, why pearls are timeless classics and what brides should do to ensure they get the perfect look on their special day.  

Are pearls still popular with brides or are they considered old fashioned?

Mary Ellen Garbarino: Brides are always looking for pearl jewelry both for themselves and for their attendants, including their flower girls. Many brides buy pearl earrings for their mothers, grandmothers, godmothers and any other women involved in the ceremony. They do not consider them old fashioned at all. Classic and timeless is more like it.

What styles of pearl jewelry are brides wearing nowadays?

ME: We find that many times brides wear a classic pearl necklace handed down from a family member and then they look for earrings or a bracelet to wear with it. If the dress is strapless, they look for either long earrings to wear alone, or pearl studs or drops to wear with a strand or pendant. Illusion necklaces are popular with the bride who has chosen a dress without lots of detail.

Do you have advice for choosing the perfect necklace or earrings? Do they have to go with the dress?

ME: Pearls go with everything; well, at least white pearls do. If the dress has lots of beading or sequins, especially if the pearl beading is stark white (they are never real pearls either) we have to be a bit more careful when choosing the jewelry. Pearl overkill is not a good idea.

Are pearls an affordable option for bridesmaids' gifts?

ME: They certainly are. We sell freshwater pearls which are gorgeous but very affordable. We offer great discounts to brides who are buying in larger quantities. In special circumstances we will give the bride free button pearl earrings with each necklace. Normally I ask a bride what her budget is for each attendant and I make
suggestions with that in mind. It simplifies the process for them. I work very hard to keep her expenses within reach for her and if we discount a bit more—that’s just fine with us. We love happy brides and buying their bridal jewelry should be the least stressful part of their wedding planning. Many of our new bridal customers received
our jewelry as a gift at a wedding they were a bridesmaid in.

What are some fresh ways to wear pearls?

ME: The classics are always fresh no matter what, tin cup necklaces are huge and we offer them in white, black, pink and lavender. Women love them. Since Carrie Bradshaw (aka Sarah J. Parker) wore the rope of pearls during the entire Sex and the City movie, women are ordering them.  I really feel that when women or men are spending money on pearls, they buy the classics always. On-line shoppers
buying trendy stuff are not looking for real pearls—these are mostly young girls wanting to spend under $20. They are not our typical customer.

Do you have any overall fashion advice for brides?

ME: Yes, when looking for a dress, try on lots of styles.  Go dress shopping with an open mind, a good friend with some fashion sense, and find a helpful sales clerk. If the salespeople are not helpful or don't treat you like you are special, move on because there is a bridal shop waiting to treat you like you deserve. Once
you find your dress and you know how you want to wear your hair then call us and let us guide you with your jewelry. When in doubt, buy several styles from us, charge them, try them on and return what does not work. You have to see it on! We'll credit your credit card before you even get your statement. It's as easy as that.

 What about any fashion or jewelry don’ts, or are rules meant to be
broken?

ME: Most good fashion jewelry rules are there because they work. Check out any bridal magazine and most times the rules are followed. Don't forget to think about where the wedding is taking place, for example is it a simple beach wedding or an elaborate affair at St. Patrick’s Cathedral in New York City? Can a bride break the rules? Of course she can within reason and only if it is in keeping with her personal style—don’t be someone you are not unless it is an upgrade!

Should bridesmaids' jewelry match?

ME: My personal opinion is yes, but that is how I am. If it doesn't match exactly, it should be white pearls, or pink pearls, etc. Do give the bridesmaids the jewelry as a gift, and then you won't have to worry about someone wearing something horrible and sticking out as the bridesmaid with horrible taste who is trying to steal the show.

 Are traditional pearls the only jewelry that's right for black tie?

ME: Traditional or vintage styles. Strands or chokers, short or long earrings: Oh yes. I was watching the movie North and South the other night and the pearls on the women were simply gorgeous. Pearls and diamonds together—what a stunning combination that’s always right for a black tie wedding.

What about a beach wedding?

ME: Sterling silver or pearls or a combination of both. Coin pearls are perfect fit too. Pearls, water and sand are a natural combination and look just terrific.

Thank you for your time, Mary Ellen. You’ve certainly given brides some food for thought!

ME: My pleasure. Brides should feel free to call me toll-free if they have any questions. 800-405-2488.

Click the Button to Send Your Questions

Copyright © 2008 by Amy Hourigan. All rights reserved.

Exploring Tahitian Pearls
By Amy Hourigan, Graduate Pearls Program, GIA

If you like black pearls, you’re probably a fan of Tahitian pearls, which are renowned for their gorgeous black sheen. Unfortunately, as they are relatively rare, they are priced accordingly. But did you know that Tahitian cultured pearls weren’t popular until recently—and they’re not always black? It’s hard to believe, but true! Let’s explore…

Tahitian Pearls
Compared to other gems, fine Tahitian cultured pearls are virtual newcomers on the jewelry scene. They arrived in the 1970s and only become popular years later—and then only thanks to bold marketing and public relations campaigns. Hard to believe, when you consider their popularity today!

But Tahitian pearls aren’t new. Westerners reportedly discovered the gems in waters in and around Tahiti in the early 1800s—and of course early Polynesians had known about the gems long before that. Unfortunately, eventual over-fishing of the pearl oysters, which were coveted for their ornamental shells more than for the gems inside, soon depleted pearl reefs. By the mid-1800s, wild black lipped oysters—the animals that grow Tahitian pearls—were rare.

Culturing Tahitian Pearls
Tahitian pearls were farmed before there was a market for the gems. Modern Tahitian pearl culturing began in the 1960s, when Jean-Marie Domard, a marine veterinarian, wanted to see if he could culture pearls in the black-lipped oyster. According to the Gemological Institute of America, Domard and other early Tahitian pearl farmers faced two significant challenges: culturing gem quality pearls in large enough quantities to sell, and finding interested buyers. To remedy the situation, early Tahitian pearl pioneers brought in Japanese pearl culturing experts to improve the harvest, and launched aggressive advertising and public relations campaigns to introduce the gems to the outside world. Billed as the first naturally colored black cultured pearls—dyed black Japanese pearls were already common—the gems’ popularity slowly grew, helped along by the Gemological Institute of America, which certified that Tahitian pearls’ dark hues did in fact occur naturally.

All the hard work of the early proponents of Tahitian pearls eventually paid off. Exports of Tahitian cultured pearls rose from a total value of $3663 in 1972 to $152 million in 1996, according to GIA. Today, pearls are French Polynesia’s leading export. Japanese dealers buy the most quantities; the United States comes in a distant second. In the late 90s, the introduction of Elizabeth Taylor’s Black Pearls perfume helped bring Tahitian pearls to the U.S. market, and sales of Tahitian pearl jewelry surged in America.

Tahitian Pearl Characteristics
Tahitian pearls are produced mostly in French Polynesia in the black-lipped oyster, P. margaritifera, a large saltwater mollusk that can grow up to 12 inches in diameter, weigh up to 11 lbs. and live up to 30 years. The oysters produce pearls that reach 8mm-14mm in size in a growth period that takes about two years. The pearls are grown in protected lagoons in oysters that farmers grow from spat, or baby oysters, because collecting adult wild black-lipped oysters is forbidden.

A peacock-sheened “black” color is arguably the most desired Tahitian cultured pearl hue, but the gems can also be black, gray or brown with hues of blue, green, and purple and overtones of rosé, green or blue. Today, Tahitian pearls are revered for their exotic colors and large sizes—the largest is 26.9 millimeters! As you may have noticed, their large price tag reflects their relative rarity.

Tahitian cultured pearls typically show fair to excellent luster, and achieve this by natural means, unlike akoyas and freshwater cultured pearls, which require treatment—usually bleaching—to enhance their surface glow. When Tahitians are harvested, all farmers have to do is wash them in fresh water, dry them and lightly buff them, usually by tumbling the gems with ground salt and bamboo chips.

P margaritifera can be nucleated, or implanted, several times over its lifetime, but in general, the first harvest produces the finest quality pearl.

Tahitian Pearl Jewelry
Unlike its smaller cousin, the akoya, the Tahitian cultured pearl is spherical less than half the time. For this reason, it may take years to find just the right pearls to match for a necklace. This is one of the reasons why a matched strand of Tahitian cultured pearls is so costly. Because they can often come in unique shapes, however, Tahitians are used by many jewelry designers in pieces that feature a single pearl. These pieces are uniquely beautiful and can be as breathtaking as a costly Tahitian strand.

Celebrities like Kiera Knightly and newsmakers like Nanci Pelosi favor Tahitian cultured pearls—and have the celebrity-sized budget to indulge their desires. If you love Tahitian cultured pearls too but don’t have a friend at Fred Leighton or an extra several thousand dollars lying around, look for jewelry that mixes pearl types (and includes Tahitian pearls) or whet your appetite with equally beautiful baroque or keshi Tahitian cultured pearls. J  

Click the Button to Send Your Questions

Copyright © 2008 by Amy Hourigan. All rights reserved.

Rare Finds: Keshi Pearls
 and Conch Pearls
By Amy Hourigan, Graduate Pearls Program, GIA

Lately, I’ve noticed that two relatively unknown pearl types have been making their way into the fashion pages with increasing frequency. Seems that conch pearls and keshi pearls are the new darlings of jewelry designers and stylish celebrities everywhere—and for good reason. They’re absolutely gorgeous! I knew the trend was heating up when questions about these gems began flooding my inbox. Curious? Here’s the lowdown:

Keshi Pearls
The invention of modern pearl culturing in the nineteenth century has made pearls relatively abundant and affordable, which is great news for pearl jewelry lovers. But culturing—the technique of inserting irritants into mollusks to induce pearl formation—is a delicate process, and things don’t always go as planned. Sometimes, the implanted oyster or mollusk prematurely rejects the irritant, but amazingly, the animal will still occasionally create a pearl.

The resulting gem is called a keshi pearl.

Japanese for poppy seed, keshi describes the early gem’s small size. Thanks to the popularity of Tahitian and South Sea pearls, the larger oysters that grow these pearl types produce keshi that are much larger than poppy seeds, but the name has stuck.

Keshi pearls have two important traits: they’re made of solid nacre, and they’re typically non-symmetrical, or baroque. Both traits are attributable to the gem’s lack of a nucleus, but it’s the former characteristic that makes keshi pearls so desirable, because dense nacre results in an intense luminosity—the “inner glow” that makes a pearl valuable. Many keshi pearls also have a rainbow-like shimmer, a beautiful trait known in the gem world as orient. Because they have a luster and orient that is not typically seen in cultured pearls, keshi pearls are increasingly finding their way into fine jewelry designs. If you happen to spot some on your favorite celeb or in a fashion magazine, now you’ll know what they are!

Interesting side notes:

• In the gem world, experts debate whether keshi pearls can be called natural, because, while they are technically non-nucleated pearls, they do result from pearl culturing.
• The abundance of keshi pearls may soon decrease, because pearl farmers are working to reduce their occurrence. That’s because the nacre used to form keshi pearls means less of the coveted substance is available to the cultured pearls farmers are trying to produce.

Conch “Pearls”
Conch “pearls” have also been making a name for themselves in the fashion world of late, so you might be surprised to know that these gems are not really pearls (hence the quotation marks). What the heck are they? They resemble pearls, sure, in looks and in that they’re grown in marine animals, but, unlike pearls, which are made up of nacre—layers of  aragonite and conchiolin—conch “pearls” consist of  calcium carbonate. For this reason, they are not considered true pearls by gemologists.

Conch “pearls” are found in the Queen conch, a marine animal prized for its beautiful shell and succulent meat. (Walk into any popular Caribbean eatery and you’re likely to find a selection of conch chowder and conch fritters on the menu. Pronounce it conk.) Typically oval or baroque and less than 3mm in diameter—although much larger ones exist—the porcelain-shiny conch “pearls" display the same colors found on the animal’s shell interior: white, tan, yellow, and pink. (A warm salmon-pink is the most popular color and typically commands the highest price.)

A notable characteristic of conch “pearls," but one that not all specimens display, is flaming, or chatoyancy. Described as a silk-like or wet silk appearance and typically only present on the pink “pearls,” flaming occurs because of the way the gem’s layers are structured. Unlike pearls formed with nacreous crystals, conch “pearls” are formed by concentric layers of fibrous crystals. A highly desirable trait, the flame effect is an optical illusion that results from this layered arrangement.

Like real pearls, conch “pearls” are thought to be produced by the animal as a protective measure against an intruder. The “pearls" are a by-product found by fisherman when the meat and shell are harvested, but the gems are extremely rare. According to the Gemological Institute of America, only one in 10,000 Queen conch shells contains a “pearl," and very few of these are gem quality. Attempts to culture conch pearls have been unsuccessful.

Jewelry lovers who are lucky enough to buy jewelry made with conch “pearls” should know that their gorgeous color fades over time. J 

Click the Button to Send Your Questions

Copyright © 2008 by Amy Hourigan. All rights reserved.

Pearls - How to Choose the Perfect Necklace Length
By Amy Hourigan, Graduate Pearls Program, GIA

You’ve made the decision to buy a pearl necklace. Good for you! Luminous pearls are beautiful, versatile, and timeless. A necklace made from round, creamy white pearls has long been a jewelry staple for good reason: It goes with just about any outfit and gives the wearer an aura of elegance and sophistication to boot. Got a job interview or office cocktail party, wedding shower or important meeting? Dressing for Casual Friday or running errands? Accessorize with a pearl necklace and you’ll look instantly polished…you really can’t go wrong.  

Surprisingly affordable, pearls are a wise investment. Cared for properly, a pearl necklace will last a lifetime or longer and can be handed down for generations.

Moon River Pearls’ 18-inch pearl necklace. Both versatile and popular, this length is ideal for most women. 

 Now that you’ve decided to buy a pearl necklace, you need to know which necklace length—and there are several—is best for you. With a few simple pointers, choosing the right length is easy.

Generally, pearl strands fall into the following categories:  

• Collar 12-13 inches
• Choker 14-16 inches
• Princess 17-19 inches
• Matinee 20-24 inches
• Opera 26-36 inches
• Rope 40 inches and over

A pearl collar fits tightly around the neck, and is typically made up of three or more strands of pearls. The collar draws attention to the wearer’s face and neck and looks classically elegant with low necklines that really show off the pearls.

A timeless classic, the pearl choker is perfect for many styles of dress, and can be worn with high or low necklines, dressed up or down. If you only own one pearl necklace, the choker, or the slightly longer princess-length, is the right choice.

Universally flattering, the classic 18-inch princess necklace is the best-selling pearl strand. Versatile and elegant, it can be worn with many different necklines, such as over a turtleneck or nestled in the open vee of a collared shirt or suit. The princess length works especially well with business suits, high-necked sweaters, twinsets, tee-shirts, and most wedding gowns.

A matinee-length strand of pearls is designed to rest on the cleavage. This length looks perfect with a high neckline that won’t compete with the pearls for attention, or with a very low, plunging neckline that frames the pearls. This length is a bit more formal than the choker and princess lengths, and is perfect for the sophisticated woman.

The long, opera-length necklace is often spotted on women enjoying a wonderful evening out. This dramatic length looks stunning with high necklines that won’t compete with the pearls. Traditionally worn with eveningwear, the opera-length necklace is increasingly being worn by fashion-forward women during the daytime. For a different look, the necklace can be looped around the neck twice for a double-strand effect.

Wonderfully breathtaking, the pearl rope hangs very low and catches the eye because it swings with the wearer’s movements. Coco Chanel would definitely approve of the pearl rope, which is designed to get attention. To change the look of the rope, the wearer can tie it in a loose knot or, as with the opera-length necklace, loop it several times around the neck for a shorter, multiple-strand effect.

General Guidelines on Length

When it comes to choosing length, the wearer’s age, body composition, lifestyle and personal tastes are all important. In general, shorter strands and smaller pearls (6.5-7.0 mm) look best on younger women; shorter strands, which nestle at the base of the throat or slightly below, draw attention to the skin and flatter youthful complexions. In addition, pearls with a smaller diameter won’t overwhelm a younger woman’s features. Short strands, especially the princess and choker, are versatile and look great with virtually any outfit.

Mature women (40s and beyond) can carry off larger pearls (7.5-8.0 mm and up) and longer lengths with ease. The longer, more dramatic lengths and the larger pearls elongate the neck and call attention to the jewelry. Longer strands also frame the face and neck beautifully, creating an overall slender appearance.

With regards to body composition, in general, short strands best complement long necks, and long strands draw the eye downward and help create the illusion of length in a short neck. When choosing a strand, keep in mind that longer strands of bigger pearls (7.5 mm and up) are traditionally considered dramatic and sophisticated, while shorter strands are classic, chic and elegant.

A pearl necklace can be paired with any outfit, but in general, the shorter lengths are more versatile, and can be worn with casual attire such as a tee-shirt and jeans as well as tailored outfits. Sporty women do best with a shorter strand, which doesn’t get in the way of daily activities, while a sophisticated dresser might like a longer, more dramatic strand. Longer lengths are typically for dressier and special occasions—although rules, especially fashion rules, are meant to be broken!

A note on layering: Today, the trend in jewelry is all about layering. Open any fashion magazine and you’ll find women wearing several necklaces of different lengths, colors and materials together to create a sassy, unique look. Having several different strands of variable sizes, lengths and colors gives the wearer many fashion options. Creative women have even been spotted threading class rings or oversize pendants on their pearls or wearing their pearl necklaces as bracelets. One thing is certain: Whichever pearl necklace you choose, it definitely won’t often see the inside of your jewelry box!J

Copyright © 2008 by Amy Hourigan. All rights reserved.
 

Are You Aware of These Common Freshwater Pearl Myths?
By Amy Hourigan, Graduate Pearls Program, GIA

 Many jewelry lovers own, or at least covet, a classic white strand of cultured pearls or a pair of luminous pearl stud earrings. No wonder…timeless and beautiful, cultured pearls are always in style (just ask Audrey Hepburn and Coco Chanel). When properly cared for, pearl jewelry can last a lifetime or longer, and can be passed down as a treasured keepsake from generation to generation. But pearls can be expensive.

If, due to budgetary concerns, you fall into the category of ‘pearl lover’ rather than ‘pearl owner,’ you’ll be happy to know you don’t have to put off buying pearls any longer. Thanks to improvements in culturing techniques and a recent shift in pearl farmers’ focus from quantity to quality, today’s freshwater cultured pearls are as beautiful as their saltwater cousins—and far more affordable. Freshwater pearls are a great option if you’re looking to buy good quality pearls on a budget.

But freshwater pearls are having a tough time shaking their dubious reputation.   Once we debunk the common myths that surround these beautiful gems, though, you may just treat yourself to a set of luminous and affordable freshwater pearls—or three! 

 
 
 Freshwater pearls, like this
four strand necklace modeled
by Schooner, can be just as
beautiful as their saltwater cousins.

Myth: Freshwater pearls aren’t real pearls.

Fact: Freshwater pearls are indeed real pearls, made from the same substance—nacre—as their saltwater cousins. The difference? Saltwater pearls grow in oysters that live in the ocean. Freshwater pearls grow in mollusks found in lakes, rivers, ponds and streams. The process that creates the pearls is the same for both freshwater and saltwater pearls, although freshwater pearls take longer to grow (anywhere from two to six years, while their saltwater counterparts are ready for harvest within six to 26 months). What’s more, because freshwater pearls are nucleated with a piece of mantle tissue (a fleshy part of the oyster or mussel) rather than a mother-of-pearl bead, they’re nearly solid nacre. Saltwater pearls consist of layers of nacre formed around a mother-of-pearl starter bead. One could argue that freshwater pearls are more “real” than saltwater pearls!

Myth: All freshwater pearls are rice-krispie shaped.

Fact: In the beginning, when pearl farmers first started to produce significant quantities of freshwater cultured pearls, the inexpensive, plentiful gems were often shaped like rice cereal, and they still can look like that today. Yet, thanks to improvements in pearl culturing techniques, freshwater cultured pearls also come in many other shapes, including round. Once Chinese pearl farmers—who produce the majority of the world’s freshwater cultured pearls—realized they had to improve pearl shape and quality to be successful, they set out to improve their harvest and eventually were able to consistently produce round freshwater cultured pearls.

The improvement in freshwater pearl quality has been slow but steady since around 1990. According to the Gemological Institute of America, today about 70 percent of the nucleations at one large pearl farm near Chenghai, China yield actual cultured pearls, and of those, 90 percent are round and near-round (not much hope for rice krispie enthusiasts)! Today, pearl jewelry lovers can buy freshwater cultured pearls in a wide variety of shapes, including round.

Myth: Freshwater pearls are inferior to saltwater pearls.

Fact: Once Chinese pearl farmers realized there was a market for quality freshwater cultured pearls—and that they could increase profits by selling quality gems for more money—they began to concentrate on improving pearl culturing techniques. Today, the best freshwater pearls are comparable in quality to their saltwater cousins, and it’s difficult for an expert to tell the difference between the two. In fact, GIA says freshwater cultured pearls grace rings, earrings, pendants, brooches and strands, and consumers are often unaware that they’re buying freshwater. This is a clear testament to the quality level that some freshwater cultured pearls have attained! Another advantage of freshwater pearls: They come in a wide range of beautiful, natural pastel colors, from white to cream to pink, yellow, orange, purple and beyond. J

 Other interesting facts about the freshwater pearl:

·         Freshwater-producing pearl mussels can accept up to 50 pieces of mantle tissue (the irritant used to start the pearl-growing process), and can produce up to 40 cultured pearls at a time.

·         China, Japan and the United States all produce freshwater cultured pearls, but China produces more than ten times the amount of freshwater cultured pearls than all other countries combined.

·         Freshwater ‘blister’ pearl culturing has been around since the 13^th century.

·         Most freshwater pearls grown in China are bleached after they are harvested; freshwater cultured pearls grown in the United States are not.

·        “Biwa” pearls refer to freshwater pearls grown in Japan’s Lake Biwa. Biwa is not a generic term for freshwater cultured pearls.   

Copyright © 2008 by Amy Hourigan. All rights reserved.